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Growing calendula at home is one of the most rewarding additions to a medicinal herb garden, and one of the easiest. The plants grow quickly from seed, bloom from late spring through hard frost, attract bees and other pollinators all season long, and produce a generous harvest of bright orange-yellow flowers that go straight into salves, oils, teas, and skin-care preparations. Calendula (Calendula officinalis) earns its place in any garden, whether you’re growing it for medicine, for color, or simply because the bees adore it.

Growing Calendula

Often called pot marigold, calendula is one of the oldest cultivated medicinal flowers in Western herbalism, with documented use going back at least to medieval European cottage gardens. The bright petals were used in cooking long before they were valued for medicine, dyeing butter, cheese, and stews a brilliant saffron-yellow back before modern food dyes existed. Modern herbalists prize the same petals for their soothing, anti-inflammatory, and gently antimicrobial action on skin, which makes calendula one of the most useful flowers you can grow if you make any of your own home remedies.

The plants are friendly to grow even for new gardeners. Calendula tolerates poor soil, partial shade, and benign neglect, and it self-sows reliably enough that one well-tended planting often turns into a permanent patch that returns year after year from its own seed. If you’re building out a medicinal herb garden, calendula is one of the friendliest plants to begin with.

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Notes from My Homestead

Calendula was one of the first medicinal herbs I planted in my very first medicinal garden, well over a decade ago, and it has earned its place every year since. Of all the medicinal plants I grow, calendula is the one that delivers the most uses per square foot of garden space. The flowers go into homemade calendula oil for burns and dry skin, into herbal salves for the medicine cabinet, into the kitchen as edible flowers sprinkled on salads, and into the dehydrator to dry for winter herbal tea blends.

Once you’ve grown calendula for a few seasons, you start to notice it everywhere it isn’t supposed to be. The seeds self-sow into garden paths, raised bed crevices, and any patch of disturbed soil that gets sun, and the volunteer plants come up exactly where they want to. I’ve stopped fighting it and just transplant the volunteers into the medicinal bed each spring, which means I rarely have to start calendula from a seed packet anymore. The plant takes care of its own succession.

Can You Grow Calendula at Home?

Yes, calendula is one of the easiest medicinal flowers to grow in any temperate climate. The plant grows quickly from seed, blooms within 6 to 8 weeks of germination, and continues producing flowers from late spring through the first hard frost. Calendula is treated as an annual in nearly every climate (more on that below), but it self-sows so reliably that one well-tended planting usually returns year after year from its own seed.

The plant tolerates a wide range of growing conditions, including poor soil, partial shade, and dry spells. It does prefer cool weather and tends to slow down in the hottest part of summer, but a hard cutback at midsummer encourages a fresh flush of blooms for fall. Calendula seeds are widely available through any standard seed catalog, and most varieties produce abundant viable seed for saving year over year.

Is Calendula a Perennial?

Calendula is technically a tender perennial in USDA zones 9 through 11, where it can survive mild winters in the ground and return year after year. In zones 8 and colder (which covers most of North America), calendula is grown as an annual that completes its full life cycle in a single growing season. The plant cannot survive hard freezes, so even in zone 9, an unusually cold winter can kill the parent plants.

The good news for cold-climate gardeners is that calendula self-sows so freely that it functions as a “perennial in practice” even where it can’t survive winter as an individual plant. Spent flower heads drop seed all season long, and those seeds typically germinate in spring without any help from the gardener. After 2 to 3 seasons of growing calendula in the same spot, you’ll often find that volunteer seedlings come up reliably each year, often more than you actually need.

To encourage self-sowing, simply leave a portion of the spent flower heads on the plants in late summer and fall to dry in place, and resist the urge to deadhead too aggressively. The seeds will drop where you want next year’s plants, and you’ll have a free patch of calendula returning year after year.

A double calendula blossom with ruffled petals
A double calendula blossom, with ruffled petals coming out of just about everywhere.

Calendula Growing Conditions

Calendula is genuinely forgiving of less-than-ideal conditions, but here are the specifics for getting the best growth and the most flowers from your plants:

  • Days to germination: 5 to 15 days outdoors, 10 to 15 days indoors
  • Optimal germination temperature: 60 to 65°F (cooler than most warm-season crops)
  • When to plant indoors: 3 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost
  • When to plant outdoors: Direct seed after the last spring frost, or transplant seedlings on the same schedule
  • Days to maturity (first bloom): 45 to 65 days from seed
  • Sunlight requirements: Full sun for the most flowers, but tolerates partial shade with reduced flowering
  • Soil type: Average to fertile, well-drained soil. Tolerates poor soil with reduced production.
  • Soil pH: 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
  • Moisture requirements: About 1 inch per week. Don’t let the soil dry out completely during flowering.
  • Plant size at maturity: 18 to 24 inches tall and a similar spread
  • Spacing: 24 to 36 inches between plants for full mature spread
Single calendula flower in full bloom

Best Calendula Varieties to Grow

There are a surprising number of calendula varieties available through seed catalogs, and all of them are both edible and medicinal. Most of the variation is in flower color, with the classic varieties producing bright yellow and orange blossoms while newer cultivars push into pink, peach, and apricot tones. The growing requirements are the same for any calendula variety, so the choice comes down to your own aesthetic preferences and intended use.

Best Calendula Variety for Medicinal Use

If you’re specifically growing calendula for medicine, Resina Calendula is the variety to choose. Resina has the highest natural concentration of medicinal resins in its blossoms, so much so that the flowers will leave orange stains on your hands when you handle them at harvest. Salves, oils, and tinctures made from Resina are noticeably more potent than those made from ornamental varieties. The flowers are bright orange and yellow with single petals, less ornamental than some other varieties but unbeatable for medicine making.

Pacific Beauty Calendula (Mixed Colors)

Pacific Beauty Calendula is the variety to grow for visual variety. A single seed packet produces plants with a wide range of blossom colors and forms, including both single and double blossoms in shades from pale yellow through deep apricot orange. The flowers are still medicinal, just less concentrated than Resina, and Pacific Beauty makes a stunning ornamental display in any cottage-style garden.

Strawberry Blonde Calendula

Strawberry Blonde Calendula is the most distinctive of the easily-available calendula varieties, with striking double-petaled blossoms in shades of pink, peach, and dusty rose. The flowers have a unique two-tone effect, with darker centers and pale outer petals that look more like an unusual zinnia than a typical calendula. Strawberry Blonde is still edible and medicinal, but most gardeners grow it for the unusual color palette and the way it elevates a flower bed beyond the usual yellow-orange calendula range.

I grow all three varieties in different parts of our medicinal garden so I have both potent medicine-making material from the Resina patch and a decorative cutting garden from the Pacific Beauty and Strawberry Blonde patches. The Resina goes into salves and oils, while the prettier mixed-color blossoms get used as edible flowers for salads and as cut flower bouquets through the summer.

How to Grow Calendula from Seed

Calendula grows readily from seed, both started indoors and direct-sown into the garden. The seeds are easy to handle (they look a bit like curled-up centipedes or octopus tentacles, which makes them a fun seed-starting project for kids) and germinate reliably as long as soil temperatures are at least 60°F.

Starting Calendula Seeds Indoors

Sow calendula seeds indoors 3 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost. Fill seed-starting trays with sterile seed-starting mix, plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep, water gently, and place in a warm spot at room temperature. Calendula doesn’t need a heat mat the way warm-season crops do, but soil temperatures around 60 to 65°F speed germination considerably.

Seedlings typically emerge in 10 to 15 days indoors. Once they appear, provide bright light from a sunny window or supplemental grow lights to prevent legginess. If you’re new to indoor seed starting, my beginner’s guide to seed starting walks through the basics, and the post on common seed starting mistakes covers the damping-off issues that affect most herb seedlings in humid trays.

Direct Seeding Calendula in the Garden

Direct seeding is even easier and works well in any climate where the soil warms up quickly enough to support germination. Sow calendula seeds outdoors after your last spring frost, planting them 1/4 inch deep and spacing the planting hole every 12 to 18 inches (you can thin to final spacing of 24 to 36 inches once seedlings establish).

Direct-seeded calendula typically germinates in 5 to 15 days, depending on soil temperature. Keep the area moist (not waterlogged) until germination, then ease back on watering once seedlings emerge.

Transplanting Calendula Seedlings

If you started seeds indoors, harden off the seedlings gradually over a week by exposing them to outdoor conditions for increasing periods. Once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50°F and the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall with several true leaves, transplant into the garden.

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, gently spread the roots, and place the seedling at the same depth it was growing in the pot. Backfill with soil, press down firmly, and water in well to encourage root establishment. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, since calendula spreads to fill its space when you harvest flowers regularly.

Calendula Companion Planting

Calendula is one of the best companion plants in the vegetable garden, both because it attracts beneficial insects and because it actively repels several common garden pests. The plant does double duty as both a pollinator magnet and a pest deterrent, which makes it useful tucked into beds throughout the food garden rather than confined to a flower bed.

Good Companion Plants for Calendula

  • Tomatoes: Calendula attracts pollinators and may repel tomato hornworms
  • Cucumbers: Pollination boost and pest deterrence
  • Peas: Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects
  • Carrots: May deter carrot fly
  • Asparagus: Long-term companion that supports the perennial bed
  • Lettuce and salad greens: Pollinator support and pest deterrence in early-season beds
  • Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale): May reduce cabbage worm pressure
  • Other herbs: Pairs well with most culinary and medicinal herbs in mixed beds

Bad Companion Plants for Calendula

Calendula doesn’t have many true antagonists in the garden, but a few crops are best planted away from it. The plant can attract aphids early in the season (which then bring beneficial predators), so it’s worth keeping calendula away from any crop that’s particularly aphid-sensitive at the seedling stage. Some gardeners also avoid planting calendula directly next to potatoes, since the dense calendula growth can compete with potatoes for water and nutrients during the critical tuber-formation period.

A native bee pollinating a calendula blossom
A native bee on a calendula blossom in our garden.

Caring for Calendula

Calendula is one of the lowest-maintenance plants in the garden once established. The plants tolerate drought, poor soil, and benign neglect, and they’re rarely bothered by pests or diseases that need active intervention.

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist during the first few weeks while plants establish, then water about 1 inch per week. Mature plants tolerate drought, but flowering decreases under prolonged dry conditions.
  • Mulching: A 2 to 3 inch layer of compost or shredded leaves around the base of plants conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and slowly feeds the soil.
  • Fertilizing: Generally unnecessary if the bed was amended with compost before planting. If plants seem stunted, a diluted liquid seaweed fertilizer a few times during the season provides a gentle boost without over-feeding. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which produce lush leaves at the expense of flowers.
  • Deadheading: Pinch off spent flowers regularly to encourage continuous bloom. If you’re harvesting flowers for medicine, you’re already doing this naturally.
  • Midsummer cutback: If plants get leggy or slow down in midsummer heat, cut them back by half. Fresh growth and a new flush of flowers usually follow within 2 to 3 weeks.
  • Pests: Rare. Aphids occasionally appear on new growth, but they typically attract beneficial predators (ladybugs, lacewings) that take care of the problem.

Saving Calendula Seeds

Saving calendula seeds is one of the easiest seed-saving projects on the homestead, and a single mature plant produces hundreds of viable seeds. Once the bright orange or yellow petals begin to drop, a tight green seed head forms in the center of where the flower used to be, and within a week or two, that seed head fills out into a cluster of curled tan-brown seeds.

The seeds look a bit like little octopus tentacles, or maybe curled-up centipedes, and they’re one of the funner shapes in the seed-saving world. My kids get a real kick out of harvesting them.

Saving Calendula Seed
Closeup of calendula seeds broken out of a seed head in our garden.

To save calendula seeds, leave a portion of the spent blossoms on the plant after they’ve been pollinated rather than deadheading them. Within a week or two, the petals will drop and the seed heads will start to develop. Wait until the flower heads start to brown and dry on the plant for the best mature seed, then snip off the seed heads with scissors and bring them indoors.

Spread the seed heads on a tray or paper bag in a warm, dry spot for another week or two to fully dry. Once completely dry, the seeds will release easily from the seed head with a gentle rub. Store the cleaned seeds in a paper envelope or sealed glass jar in a cool, dry, dark place. Properly stored calendula seed remains viable for at least 3 to 5 years.

When and How to Harvest Calendula

Calendula flowers are at their most potent the day they fully open. Check your plants regularly during peak bloom, and harvest fresh open flowers in the late morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day. Flowers harvested earlier or later than this window are less concentrated in medicinal resins.

To harvest, pinch off or snip the entire flower head at the top of the stem. The plant will respond by sending up new flower buds, and continuous harvesting actually increases overall production. Don’t feel bad about taking flowers regularly. Calendula plants that are harvested heavily produce more flowers all season long than plants left untouched. The only flowers you should leave on the plant are a few late-season blooms intended for seed saving.

A handful of calendula flowers harvested from the garden
A handful of calendula blossoms harvested from my garden.

At the end of the growing season, after the first hard frost has stopped flowering for the year, you can pull the entire plant out of the ground for a final harvest. Calendula leaves and stems also contain medicinal compounds, so the whole-plant harvest is worth doing if you have the time. Strip the leaves and small remaining flowers, dry them all together, and add to teas and herbal preparations alongside the dried flower petals.

How to Dry and Store Calendula

Drying is the most common way to preserve calendula, and properly dried flowers retain their potency for about a year. The trick to good dried calendula is gentle heat. The volatile compounds that give calendula its medicinal action are damaged by high temperatures, so all drying methods should stay below 105°F.

Don’t wash the harvested flowers before drying, since the moisture encourages mold. If your flowers are dusty or have hitchhiking insects, gently shake them out and brush off any debris with a soft brush. Spread the whole flower heads in a single layer on a screen or mesh drying rack and place in a warm, well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight. Air drying typically takes 1 to 2 weeks depending on humidity.

For dehydrator drying, spread flowers in a single layer on dehydrator trays and run at 90 to 95°F for 12 to 24 hours, until petals are completely crisp and the centers no longer feel cool to the touch. Don’t use your oven, since most ovens can’t reliably hold the low temperatures calendula needs without damaging the flowers.

Once completely dry, store dried calendula whole or pluck the petals from the centers (the petals are the most medicinally concentrated part). Either way, store in a sealed glass jar away from light, where the flowers will keep their potency for about a year. Whole flowers keep longer than separated petals, since the protective base helps preserve the volatile oils.

How to Use Calendula

Once you have a productive calendula patch, the question shifts from how to grow it to how to use the harvest. The good news is that calendula is one of the most versatile medicinal flowers, with applications across both kitchen and apothecary.

Our roundup of 10 ways to use calendula covers the full range of preparations and recipes. The short version: calendula-infused oil is the workhorse preparation that goes into salves, lotions, and skin-care products. Herbal salves made from calendula oil are essential medicine cabinet items for burns, rashes, dry skin, and minor cuts. Calendula lotion bars are a clever way to use up excess flowers, and dried petals make a beautiful golden tea.

Fresh calendula petals are also edible flowers with a slightly spicy, peppery flavor. Sprinkle them over salads, garnish soups and grain bowls, or use them historically the way our ancestors did, as a saffron substitute to color rice, butter, and broths a brilliant golden yellow. The flavor is mild but distinctive, and the bright color elevates any dish.

Calendula Recipes

Traditional Uses of Calendula

Calendula has been used in Western herbalism for at least a thousand years, with documented mention in medieval European herbals as a wound-healing flower. Modern herbalists value calendula primarily for its skin-healing applications, with topical preparations used for:

  • Minor burns, sunburn, and skin irritation
  • Dry skin, eczema, and chapped lips
  • Minor cuts, scrapes, and abrasions
  • Diaper rash (calendula is a common ingredient in commercial baby skincare)
  • Bug bites and minor inflammation

Internally, calendula tea has a long traditional reputation for soothing inflamed mucous membranes, supporting the immune system, and easing mild digestive complaints. Modern research has explored these traditional uses with growing interest, particularly the topical applications, and calendula is now one of the more widely studied medicinal flowers in scientific literature. As with any herbal medicine, calendula is not a replacement for medical care, and people with serious conditions should work with a qualified healthcare provider.

Safety and Cautions for Calendula

Calendula is one of the gentlest medicinal flowers and is generally considered safe for most people, including children, when used at typical herbalist-recommended doses. There are a few cautions worth knowing.

  • Allergies to the daisy family: Calendula is in the Asteraceae (daisy) family, which includes ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and chamomile. People with known allergies to these plants may also react to calendula and should test a small skin patch with calendula oil or salve before regular use.
  • Pregnancy: Internal use of calendula tea or tincture is generally not recommended during pregnancy due to potential effects on uterine tissue. Topical use of calendula salves and oils is generally considered safe.
  • Sedatives: Calendula may have mild sedative effects when taken internally. Use cautiously if you take prescription sedatives or sleep medications.
  • Pot marigold vs garden marigold: Make sure you’re growing the medicinal calendula (Calendula officinalis) and not common ornamental marigold (Tagetes sp.). The two are often confused, but they’re different plants and Tagetes marigolds are not used the same way medicinally.

Calendula FAQs

Is calendula a perennial?

Calendula is a tender perennial in USDA zones 9 through 11, where it can survive mild winters and return year after year. In zones 8 and colder, calendula is grown as an annual that completes its life cycle in a single growing season. Even in cold climates, calendula self-sows so reliably that one well-tended planting often returns from its own seed year after year, functioning as a perennial in practice even though individual plants don’t survive winter.

How long does it take to grow calendula?

Calendula typically reaches first bloom in 45 to 65 days from seed. Seedlings emerge in 5 to 15 days when direct-sown outdoors and 10 to 15 days when started indoors. Plants continue blooming from late spring through the first hard frost, with peak production in early to midsummer.

How tall does calendula grow?

Mature calendula plants typically reach 18 to 24 inches tall and a similar spread, growing in a bushy upright form with multiple branched stems. Plants get bushier and broader when flowers are harvested regularly, eventually filling a 2 to 3 foot space at maturity.

Does calendula need full sun?

Calendula grows best in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight daily), where it produces the most flowers. The plant tolerates partial shade with reduced flowering. In hot southern climates, afternoon shade can actually benefit calendula by reducing midsummer heat stress, but in cooler climates, full sun all day is ideal.

What is the best calendula variety for medicinal use?

Resina Calendula is widely considered the best variety for medicinal use because it has the highest natural concentration of medicinal resins in its blossoms. The flowers are bright orange and yellow with single petals, and they leave noticeable orange stains on your hands when handled at harvest. All calendula varieties are medicinal, but Resina is the most concentrated for salves, oils, and tinctures.

Does calendula come back every year?

In USDA zones 9 through 11, calendula plants can survive winter and return each year as perennials. In colder zones, individual plants don’t survive but the patch typically returns from self-sown seed. To encourage self-sowing, leave some spent flower heads on the plants in late summer to drop seed in place. After 2 to 3 seasons, you’ll often have volunteer seedlings coming up reliably each spring.

What are calendula’s soil requirements?

Calendula prefers fertile, well-drained soil with neutral to slightly acidic pH (6.0 to 7.0). The plant tolerates poor soil with reduced flowering, but performs best in soil amended with compost before planting. Calendula does not tolerate waterlogged soil, so good drainage is more important than soil type.

What temperature does calendula need to germinate?

Calendula germinates best at soil temperatures between 60 and 65°F, which is cooler than most warm-season vegetable crops. The seeds typically emerge in 5 to 15 days outdoors and 10 to 15 days when started indoors. Calendula doesn’t require bottom heat from a seedling heat mat the way warm-season crops do.

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Calendula Flower Harvest
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Servings: 1 Calendula Plant

How to Grow Calendula

Step-by-step instructions for starting calendula from seed and growing it as a productive medicinal flower in any temperate climate.
Prep: 15 minutes
Total: 15 minutes
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Ingredients 

  • Calendula seeds, Calendula officinalis
  • sterile seed-starting mix
  • well-drained garden soil
  • compost

Instructions 

  • Sow calendula seeds indoors 3 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost, or direct seed outdoors after the last frost has passed. Plant seeds about 1/4 inch deep in moist seed-starting mix or well-prepared garden soil.
  • Maintain soil temperatures between 60 and 65°F for best germination. Calendula doesn’t need bottom heat the way warm-season crops do, so room temperature is plenty. Seeds typically emerge in 5 to 15 days outdoors, 10 to 15 days indoors.
  • Once seedlings have several true leaves and outdoor temperatures are consistently above 50°F at night, harden off indoor-started seedlings gradually over a week by exposing them to outdoor conditions for increasing periods.
  • Transplant outdoors into a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil amended with compost. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, since calendula spreads to fill its space when flowers are harvested regularly.
  • Water about 1 inch per week throughout the growing season, keeping soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Mulch around the base of plants with 2 to 3 inches of compost or shredded leaves to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
  • Begin harvesting flowers once they fully open, about 45 to 65 days from seed. Pinch or snip flower heads in late morning after the dew has dried, taking the entire flower head at the top of the stem. Continuous harvesting actually increases overall production, so don’t hold back.
  • If plants get leggy or slow down in midsummer heat, cut them back by half. Fresh growth and a new flush of flowers usually follow within 2 to 3 weeks.
  • To preserve the harvest, spread fresh flower heads in a single layer on a screen or mesh drying rack in a warm well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight, or use a dehydrator at 90 to 95°F. Don’t wash flowers before drying, since the moisture encourages mold.
  • Once flowers are completely crisp (12 to 24 hours in a dehydrator, 1 to 2 weeks air drying), store whole dried flowers in a sealed glass jar away from light. Properly dried calendula keeps its potency for about a year.
  • To save seeds for next year's garden, leave some spent blossoms on the plant in late summer rather than deadheading them. Wait until the seed heads brown and dry on the plant, then snip them off and finish drying indoors before storing in a paper envelope in a cool, dry, dark place.
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Medicinal Herb Growing Guides

Once calendula is settled into your medicinal garden, the natural companions are the other gentle medicinal herbs and flowers. Medicinal flowers like chamomile and lavender pair beautifully with calendula in salve recipes, and marshmallow adds soothing mucilage to skin preparations. Lemon balm and tulsi are good additions for an herbal tea garden, and our easy-to-grow medicinal herbs roundup is a good shortlist for new herb gardeners.

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About Ashley Adamant

I'm an off grid homesteader in rural Vermont and the author of Practical Self Reliance, a blog that helps people find practical ways to become more self reliant.

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4 Comments

  1. Sarah maya says:

    love calendulas, of late, I can seem to find a ny seedlings,with all the rain ,all my herb garden is totally washed out.
    but my marigolds are flourishing!

    thank you for your website and your work.

    1. Administrator says:

      You’re welcome. So glad you’re enjoying it. I’m sorry about all the rain.

  2. Blue says:

    Man… Just when I thought I was done ordering seeds for the season…. I think a bed of these with some Purple Cone Flower would be nice.

    1. Administrator says:

      I can definitely understand your pain. You should have known better. They work nicely among the veggies plants in the garden as well.