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Propagating grapes from greenwood cuttings allows you to expand your vineyard during the growing season, giving you the opportunity to produce more plants while the vines are still active. It’s an efficient way to multiply your grapevines and take advantage of the season’s growth.
Most grapes are propagated from hardwood cuttings taken when the plants are dormant. That’s a dependable method for most types of grapes, but you can also grow grapes from greenwood cuttings in the spring and summer growing season.
Why Use Greenwood Cuttings?
Propagating grapes from greenwood cuttings allows you to expand your vineyard during the growing season when the vines are actively growing. Unlike the dormant hardwood cuttings typically taken in winter, greenwood cuttings offer a more immediate solution for multiplying vines, especially for varieties like muscadines and pigeon grapes that don’t propagate well from hardwood.
Another reason to propagate with greenwood cuttings is to rapidly expand your grapevine collection. You can take multiple cuttings from one established vine and continue the process, which allows you to increase your crop much faster than traditional methods.
Growing grapes from greenwood cuttings is a rewarding yet slightly more challenging method of propagation, perfect for those who are comfortable with a bit of finesse and patience.
While the process may take a little more effort and attention to detail, propagating grapes from greenwood cuttings is a fantastic way to expand your grapevine collection or grow specific varieties that require this method. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or ready to take on a new propagation challenge, learning how to grow grapes from greenwood cuttings can be both satisfying and highly productive.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps, tips, and common mistakes to avoid when working with greenwood cuttings to help you achieve the best results.
(If you’re looking for other methods, I also have an article with 5 Ways to Propagate Grapes that walks you through all the other methods.)
Greenwood Cuttings
Propagating greenwood cuttings is a trickier endeavor, but still do-able if you have experience with propagating other actively-growing perennials. Unlike growing hardwood cuttings, which is relatively straightforward, there are additional factors to keep in mind and the cuttings themselves are prone to drying out before they can begin to take root.
Why propagate with greenwood cuttings?
For grapevine-growing enthusiasts, there are certain types of grapes that don’t have a high success rate if grown from hardwood cuttings. These varieties include muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) and pigeon grapes (Vitis aestivalis), which have only a 1 to 2 percent chance of successful growth if propagated from hardwood (versus ~70 percent chance of success if grown from greenwood).
You might also want exponential grapevine growth, as cuttings can be removed from established cuttings and so on and so forth.
If you’re determined to propagate grapes from greenwood cuttings, you’ll want to collect cuttings through late spring until late summer. Using pruning shears, cut stems from the vine that are approximately 6 to 10 inches.
Greenwood cuttings are more delicate than hardwood cuttings, which makes them weaker and more prone to damage, and they’ll need to stand up once potted. Just like with hardwood cuttings, cut above the node and leave one or two healthy nodes behind on the remaining vine.
Carefully remove all of the leaves on the fresh cutting except for one, this is to keep water loss at a minimum as the cutting begins to grow. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone before immediately planting in potting soil.
Place the potted cuttings in a warm, moist environment (again, we keep ours in our attached greenhouse). It will take about 1 to 2 weeks for roots to begin growing and anywhere from 3 to 7 weeks for the roots to become long enough to replant the grape cuttings outdoors.
It’s incredibly important to keep the greenwood cuttings in a moist, humid environment until they develop roots. Most people opt for a misting system to keep them constantly damp so they don’t dry out, but then you also run the risk of fungal problems.
Be sure to keep them in shade until they’re established, as that’s another good way to keep greenwoood cuttings from drying too much before they have roots that can support plant growth.
Common Mistakes
While propagating grapes from hardwood cuttings is relatively simple, there are a few common mistakes that can hinder success. By being aware of these pitfalls and taking preventative measures, you can improve your chances of success.
Improper Storage Conditions: One of the biggest mistakes is storing cuttings under the wrong conditions. Hardwood cuttings should be stored in a cool, moist environment, ideally between 40-50°F (4-10°C). If the cuttings are stored in too-warm or too-dry conditions, they may dry out or rot. Conversely, overly moist conditions can cause mold growth or premature sprouting. A simple solution is to store the cuttings in damp sand or sawdust in a cool, shaded area, ensuring they stay hydrated but not soaking wet.
Moisture & Humidity: Since greenwood cuttings are more delicate than hardwood, they require consistent moisture and a humid environment to prevent drying out. Using misting systems or keeping them in a shaded area can help, but be careful not to overwater, which could lead to fungal problems.
Incorrect Rooting Hormone Application: Using rooting hormone can significantly increase the success rate of your hardwood cuttings, but it’s important to apply it correctly. Some beginners make the mistake of dipping the entire cutting in the hormone, which can lead to clumping and uneven distribution. For best results, dip only the cut end of the cutting into the rooting hormone and tap off any excess. Too much hormone can cause the cutting to fail, as it may interfere with proper root formation.
Planting Too Deep or Too Shallow: If you plant the cuttings too deep, there may not be enough energy for the buds to sprout, leading to poor growth. On the other hand, if the cuttings are too shallow, they may not develop enough root structure to support healthy growth. For hardwood cuttings, aim to plant them about 2 to 3 inches deep, ensuring that at least one or two buds are below the soil surface.
Lack of Patience: Rooting grape cuttings can take time, sometimes several weeks. One of the most common mistakes is impatience—many gardeners dig up their cuttings too soon to check for roots, interrupting the process. It’s crucial to allow the cutting to stay undisturbed until roots have had sufficient time to form. Avoid the temptation to pull or disturb the cutting, as this can set back root development.
Growing Grapes from Greenwood Cuttings
Equipment
- Sharp pruning Shears for clean cuts
Ingredients
- Green grapevine stems taken during late spring to early summer
- Rooting hormone optional, but can boost success
- Potting Soil
Instructions
- Select the Right Cuttings: Choose young, green grapevine stems that are about 6-10 inches long and include at least two nodes (where leaves grow).
- Prepare the Cuttings: Trim the cuttings just below a node, remove any excess leaves (leaving one or two at the top), and dip the cut end in rooting hormone if desired.
- Plant the Cuttings: Insert the cuttings into moist, well-draining potting soil, burying them about 2-3 inches deep.
- Maintain Moisture and Humidity: Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the cuttings in a warm, humid environment, such as a mini greenhouse or under a plastic cover, to retain moisture.
- Wait for Roots: Roots should start developing within 1-2 weeks. Once the roots are established, you can move the cuttings into larger pots or directly into the garden.
Notes
- Keep the environment humid and warm for best rooting success.
- Avoid disturbing the cuttings until they are well-rooted. Check for roots before transplanting.
- Greenwood cuttings root faster in warm, moist conditions but need to avoid excess water.
- Monitor humidity closely—too little moisture can cause cuttings to dry out, while too much moisture can lead to mold or rot.
