How did primitive potters harvest clay? People have been making pottery for millennia, and convenient hobby shops have only been a thing for a few decades at best.
Before that, people harvested their own clay right from the soil.
Clay is present just about everywhere, and even soils described as “sandy loam” can contain as much as 20% clay. To the naked eye, it may look like sandy soil, but with a 20% clay content, every 10 pounds of soil is hiding 2 pounds of clay ready for harvest.
With a little effort, you can harvest your own clay for craft projects or even something as advanced as a backyard bread oven.
Though most soil has some clay content, the yield will obviously be higher if you find high clay soils. Look for areas where the water tends to sit after a heavy rain.
Our soils are very shallow, and there’s usually somewhere between 8 and 18 inches of topsoil before a layer of dense clay. We’ve been working to slow the water runoff from our land, and the clay harvest happens more or less by accident while in the process of digging small slowing ponds.
If you’re curious how much clay your soil contains, try doing a test jar. Fill the jar about halfway with soil, add water and stir to completely break up soil particles. After a few minutes, any sand and silt will settle to the bottom. Anything that’s still left suspended in the water is the clay content.
This jar started at half full, and it’s now 1/4 full with silt, sand, and rock. I’d estimate that my soil sample is roughly 50% clay.
Testing the soil’s clay content in a jar.
There are two traditional methods for harvesting clay: dry and wet.
Dry Clay Harvest Method
The dry method involves completely drying out the soil, sifting it repeatedly and pounding the clay globs until it’s completely uniform and flour-like. This sifting is followed by a few rounds of winnowing the clay onto a collection surface.
The dried clay powder is then rehydrated and kneaded into workable potting clay.
This method is a great option in water-limited areas, but it requires a lot of time and energy. If you have baking hot sun and very little rain, it’s practical to completely dry earth.
None the less, the process of sifting, pounding and winnowing will take hours for just a few pounds of clay.
Wet Clay Harvest Method
The wet harvest method involves adding both water and soil to a bucket. The soil is then stirred into the water, and allowed to sit for a brief period to allow the rock, sand, and silt to settle out. The clay stays suspended in the water for longer.
The clay and water mixture is then filtered through a fine cloth or sheet. What’s left is a ball of smooth clay.
The wet harvest method is much more efficient and allows gravity to do most of the work. If you have access to plenty of water this is the way to go.
Up here in Vermont, we’re never short on water, and it’d be hard to find enough hot rain-free days in a row to completely dry the soil out for the dry extraction method anyway.
The wet extraction method is also a lot more fun, and allows kids to join in on clay processing. My 18-month-old was a huge help loading soil into the bucket and stir it up, and I couldn’t have asked for a more enthusiastic helper.
Processing Clay for Pottery
To use the wet extraction method, start by filling a bucket about 1/3 of the way with soil. Add water and use your hands to break up the soil particles as finely as you can get them.
Allow the soil to hydrate for a few minutes, or preferably a few hours. Then use your hands to break up the soil pieces again.
Give the whole bucket a good stir. A shovel works well for this, or a boat oar, or just an arm.
Our soil has so much clay suspended in the water that an arm in the bucket comes out completely covered in the clay slurry.
Clay and water slurry sticking to my arm as I process the clay using the wet extraction method.
Once the soil is fully suspended in the water, give the bucket a few minutes to settle. The rocks fell out of suspension almost immediately, followed by the sand.
The silt will take 2-5 minutes to settle down, leaving only the smallest clay particles suspended in the water.
While you’re waiting, get a sheet ready inside a bucket or colander. Anything with a fine weave will do, I’m using an old bedsheet.
The sheet has a relatively loose weave, so I’ve folded it into quarters.
The water moved through the sheet quite slowly, and I think next time I’ll just double it instead so I don’t have to wait 24 hours for the water to completely drain.
I’ve read in rural India, women who filter water through 7 layers of sari cloth actually filter out cholera. With 4 layers of bed sheet, I was able to filter a clay slurry to completely clear water.
I wouldn’t imagine that I removed bacteria, but it’s good to know that I can take scummy water and make it clear enough to boil for fresh drinking water.
My daughter has been drinking from our pond all summer using a life straw, mostly for novelty value. She gets a kick out of being able to drink right from the pond, but filtering the water to remove dirt first seems like a much more sustainable long-term solution for water.
With 4 layers of bed sheet, it took about 24 hours for the water to completely drain. As I said, 4 layers is definitely overkill.
Next time I’ll cut this sheet in half and make two clay extractors, each with two layers of a bedsheet.
To speed up the process, I gathered the corners of the sheet and hung it from a tree.
In the end, the top inch of clay was still pretty wet and slimy.
After 24 hours, I pulled all the clay out of the sheet, kneaded it together and let it dry in the sun for a few hours. At that point, the texture was just right.
Since it’s not commercial clay, it’ll take a bit of effort to learn how to fire it correctly. The right firing temperature may be hard to achieve, but our next step is to make a primitive kiln in the backyard.
I’m really inspired by the maker of the primitive technology videos on youtube, and he has a beautiful homemade rocket stove kiln. Temperatures in that won’t be exact either way, so it’ll be a learning curve regardless of the type of clay used.
I’ve read that inconsistencies in homemade clay can make it liable to crack during firing and that some potters actually mix in stones to their pottery vessels to help stabilize them. Soon enough I’ll find out when we go to make primitive pottery.
I can pull an unlimited amount of clay out of our soil without much trouble, so even if it takes a while to get the pottery process down it doesn’t much matter. It’s all part of the journey.
We worked our first lumps of clay into very primitive bowls, and thus far I’ve found that it’s much easier to make clay than it is to make attractive pottery.
It’ll take a lot more practice to make something worth firing, but in the meantime, we’ll try firing these practice bowls to refine our technique.
Overall, the process was almost effortless. Though I haven’t tried the dry method, there’s no way it could be this easy.
By description, it’s pretty grueling and it seems like you’d be inhaling a lot of clay dust in the process.
I’ll stick with the wet method and mud splashing with the kids.
Toni
I absolutely love this post, and I’m going to try your wet method for harvesting clay as soon as I can get a bucket filled with some of our clay-y soil and some water. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Elaine Allan-Davis
I know that this reply is several years overdue, but hopefully it can be of some use to others, if not for you yourself.
In order to make stronger, longer lasting pottery, ancient people almost ubiquitously mixed in other things to their clay. Even now, it’s a good idea to do so. Below I have a few things that could be re-mixed back into the harvested clay for additional strength;
Fine sand was a popular choice throughout the bronze and iron ages;
Paper pulp is a very common additive today, and could be made at home by soaking old newspapers in water and blending them in the water to make a slurry;
Plant matter, such as straw, can be mixed in to the soil used to build the kiln or other such “industrial” objects, like an oven;
And finally, grog. Grog is a little bit more adventurous, as it is more labour intensive to make, but it is a good test for your clay, as it essentially is the process of firing raw clay, breaking it up into a powder, and mixing it back into the clay.
None of these are necessary to make beautiful pottery, but it does make it last longer, and makes it easier to work with while building.
It might also be interesting to experiment with pressing a coating of sand onto the pots, in order to see if the silica content of your local sand is high enough to make glass.
Sasha
This sounds like the perfect project to do with my kids. I thought clay extraction would be difficult but this sounds so easy!
Quinn
I just have to say how much I LOVE your site! I always learn something new and unique! We’re building a home right now so there’s LOTS of almost solid clay laying around… time to get busy 😀
Ashley Adamant
Thanks Quinn =) You write one of my very favorite blogs, and I see you’re just getting another site off the ground too. Congrats!!!
John Jacob
That is an awesome blog note. I spend a summer in Kenai Alaska back in the 80’s, and a then young art student named Brian Bolden showed me that the silt at the mouth of the Kenai River going into Cooks inlet was pure enough clay and had a low enough firing temperature that it could go through a minor quartz inversion in a hot campfire. If I recall (and understood correctly), it had to do with the sulfur content in the clay due to the amount of coal in the area that caused it to do this. We built a kiln on the beach with rocks, clay and a scrap piece of culvert, then used low grade coal that was in the hill side to fire it. What a memory.
rebecca Schneider
I grew up in kenai ak and spent my summers on that beach. I now live not far away and have my own kiln. I will have to try it this summer. great idea.
melissa
This is fascinating! My last garden had almost solid clay soil, I’m regretful that I didn’t try this! There are also spots along the coast of CA where there are ‘veins’ of straight clay.
I recently attended a women’s retreat and we did primitive pottery, but from store-bought clay, and fired them in a trash can. It was packed with sawdust, woodchips and the pottery bits, and then lit and slowly burned.
Charlotte Anderson
This is awesome. I cant wait to give it a try!
jane byrd
I love this blog, well done, i too am an off-grid homesteader, mother in the middle of nowhere in Portugal…. I too love primitive tech, i watch all his video’s, i hope to aspire to be primitive one day, love your work, keep posting, hope to see more.. one love <3
Nad
Thanks for a fantastic post! I was looking into this the other day, since I now live in an area where the soil pretty much is only clay! Do you have any insight intousing self-made clay that could – I have no idea whether this is even possible – somehow airdry, i.e. eliminating the need for a kiln? I’d love to give it a go and see if I like it before the incurring the costs associated with buying or building one. We have no such resources close-by so firing up in someone else’s sadly isn’t an option.
Ashley Adamant
We tried air drying ours and it looked great…then I handed it to my 1-year-old and he snapped it in half with his hands in under 3 seconds. It would have been nice if that worked, but at least for ours, it didn’t. I have seen primitive techniques that just bury them in a fire pit, which might be an option if you have a charcoal bbq grill.
Lisa Wilhelmi
Wow! You are most refreshing and informative. I appreciate your good works. Sincerely Yours – Lisa, Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma residing in California
Ashley Adamant
Thanks Lisa!
lindsey
can you also use this to make clay to make sculptures with?
Ashley Adamant
Yup! Or at least my little ones did. I couldn’t speak to high-quality art though…since I’m not super familiar with that type of clay and how it may differ from what we pulled out of the ground.
Brian
Years ago I read a book about people who recreated an iron Age village in England. They were lucky: before the year-long project started, they had a pickup truck load of commercial clay dumped for their use, so they did not have to use natural clay. But they found their pots kept on bursting asunder when fired, or they would fire well but then burst during use.
Turned out, the clay was actually TOO pure. Their pots improved when they added bits of stone or gravel. But either way it took a lot of practice and experience to get the firing process right.
I have long wanted to play around with clay, but it never occurred to me you could make your own from non-clay soil, until I saw the process described on the web!
Mady
I come from people who love outdoors but sadly imwent into fister care and my dad who took me into the forest is now dead and the people who are going to adopt me hate outdoors and finding this gives me something to do.
Ashley Adamant
Hi Mady, I’m sorry to hear that but happy you’ll have a new project. I hope you find the outdoor time you need, best wishes. -Ashley
GG
Hi Mady, Just saw this over a year after your post.
Exploring your creativity in any way, shape, or form will help to keep you centered, and also connected with your pops.
Best wishes, GG
Yusuf
I came from a google search and the article was so fun to read. I never expected it to be this good. Thanks for the effort.
Dragme
Im going to give you a protip: If you want to mix and match the “drying method” vs wet method then you can dig up a long, thin section of earth. Use what you dug up to process ina bucket of water. Swirl and separate clay from soil. Wait 5 minutes, then pour the water out into that same trench. Hold a few fingers in the water as you slowly pour it out from the side of the bucket. When you start feeling thicker, muddy consistency through your fingers, stop, fill the bucket some more with earth, and repeat this process. Once the bucket is half full of silt and sand, flip it over and pound the bottom so it drops out. Then do this again. Since the clay is in the ground, and since it is an open, long pit, it will dry within 1 to 2 days depending on heat, sunlight, etc.
Ashley Adamant
Really great idea, and saves needing a cloth to filter. Excellent!
Martin le Maitre
This post is PERFECT for my needs, THANK YOU!
I’m not actually wanting to make pottery, I just want some natural (and cheap) clay for bonsai landscapes.
I’ve asked various people and websites, and here at last is the answer!
Very impressed with your project, good luck with it! I see the post is over a year old, how are things progressing?
Blessings, regards. Martin – Joburg, South Africa.
Teresa Antosyn
I have some red rock from Utah canyon lands. It has been sitting in my back yard for almost 20 years. It has been crumbling over the years as it is soft in nature. Is it possible to turn it into clay…? Thanks, Teresa Antosyn
Ashley Adamant
That’s a good question that I don’t have the answer to. I have no idea what that would be made out of. Limestone that we have out here crumbles too, but it wouldn’t make clay.
Lawanda
I’m originally from Oklahoma a state rich in red clay..as a child in Native American Heritage class we did the dry method using flour sifters. We made coil bowls. They are easy and we used smooth rocks to rub the inside and outside of the vessel before we had it fired. My grandmother had that little bowl for over 40 years.
You have brought back great memories. I’ve also harvestedclau with the wet method. It is easier.
Sarie
Hi. That sounds very much like decomposed sandstone. People indigenous to the area are not using the local rocks for red clay, though it has a similar to terra cotta color that can remind us of clay. It is simply stained by the same mineral particles as the clay in the earth below it is, that they do dig up and use. I have several friends who are Native potters, & my mom had already had the “yes, but, can’t I…?” conversation with a couple of them. It is unfortunately what, once fully eroded, is filtered out to get just clay – or sometimes a little is used as temper. It can be ground up and used in a sand painting, though, if it is really falling apart Grind with a rock on a large flat rock on top of a tarp, old school. (It will dull any metal grinder, so I don’t recommend that.) Winnie it through a screen type strainer. Paint glue in a desired shape on a board, sift on sand, let dry and shake off excess, then do another part of the pattern with regular sand if you like. That’s one way to save it and do something creative. You can draw lines with an Elmer’s bottle, even, or put down painter’s tape, paint on glue, and get precise lines or edges by removing the tape before the glue dries. I suspect there are sand painting videos… “everything is online these days” applies especially to creative things. Hope that helps.
ˈkräkən Víkingurinn.
Hail!!!
I be Anglo-Saxon Norse Viking, I produce clay old fashioned tobacco pipes.
Question, by pulling the clay from the ground would be as the ancients did it however, would I mix with anything else?
ˈkräkən Víkingurinn
Sarie
To be strong enough, especially when exposed to heat again, you need to add a temper of some kind, like ground shell or mica. Mix it into the clay before forming. Look up “clay temper suitable for clay pipes” and you should find instructions. I have seen it done but I was little. I don’t have details. I do remember being told it was important for strength in general, to avoid breakage, and especially for cooking vessels, clay pipes, or incense burners. I have a Native friend who makes clay ceremonial pipes and I know he uses mica or shell, ground into powder and added from the beginning, to clay powder or kneaded into wet clay. You do not want pipes exploding & if they crack it can be like that with embers flying, and they are held near the face. He points out that would not make for a peaceful peace pipe at all. Many cultures have used tempered fired clay for cooking, baking, or pipes. There is a lot written on tempering pottery, and probably local materials used are line too!
iftikhar Ali
Very informative article. One question. I have a creek near my home. Does the soil In the marsh area is considered clay? Or does it have higher content if clay?
Toni
We have huge chunks of clay all over our beach. I processed some one time but when I was all done. Washed, dried, crushed, strained, and rewet, it wouldn’t stick together. I was told it didn’t have enough “plastic” to actually make anything. What do you do about that? I’d love to process my own. We have an over abundance lying around in giant chunks.
Lexington Dinglebottom
You either don’t have clay, or didn’t do it properly. There’s no such thing as clay that isn’t plastic. Clay is inherently plastic. Plastic means it’s ability to be kneaded and worked, not plastic as in petrochemicals btw.
Kay
Clay that is less plastic is called short clay. You can make it useable by purchasing powdered ball clay to add in. Work a small amount at a time until a small test piece of clay, when rolled into a coil and bent over your finger doesn’t crack.
Robyn Schnee
Great post! Thank you! We recently moved onto a property with what looks like a large amount of almost pure clay. I was trying to figure out how to purify it to play around with the kids. Will give it a go – thanks!
Connie Hall
Love this post! Our soil is more clay than anything else. I have to try this!
Valerie Watson
You really shouldn’t use the word “primitive” in your description of the method and people who use it considering there are cultures, and yourself, that are now using it. Most, if not all, anthropologists agree that the word is derogatory and insinuates lesser intelligence or social complexity. It’s just a matter if respect for cultures other than your own. You don’t even need to include primitive in your sentences. You can say pre-industrial methods since it’s machines that process clay nowadays. Thanks!
Jason B
Pretty sure the use of the word Primitive is on the mark.
Primitive
adjective
1.
relating to, denoting, or preserving the character of an early stage in the evolutionary or historical development of something.
Perception is not reality.
Sarie
Exactly. The procedure, not any demographic, is referred to. The method being primitive and ancient often is what people love about it, too – connection to ancestral lifeways, self-sufficiency without machinery or corporate sources, natural materials with no chemical so-called purification. The intent & tone here are certainly not derogatory at all. Hand-forming is referred to as primitive by friends whose cultures get stereotyped and who are very much connected to their cultures, bc it does not imply less skillful at all, but rather more hands-on and not commercialized! It’s good to realize it might bother someone but I see no disrespect here, rather the opposite, an appreciation for gifts of the earth and primitive technology is still technology, and in fact imies wiser for lack of it being mostly done for us! It takes work & becomes a skill! It could be said that assuming primitive means lesser, is rude. Yes, all in the perspective.
LW
“The wet harvest method is much more efficient and allows gravity to do most of the work. If you have access to plenty of water this is the way to go.” <- If you're okay with 75%+ losses. You will end up with almost four to five times as much processing the same materials dry as you do wet.
vocalpatriot
Miss Ashley,
It’s been MANY years since I played with the mud.. but I recall somewhere in that past, someone saying to me that they used pulverized pieces of their cracked pottery as an added aggregate to their clay…I never knew why…perhaps you’ve explained that in this wonderful article, regarding cracking pottery…You are blessed, and so, we are. Thanks!
Art Dickinson
Looking for clay-rich soils is also important in cob construction…
Marvin Bartel
Looks like a great activity. Kids love to mess in the mud, and they love to be helpful. I am an art educator and a ceramic artist. Our own children certainly benefited from similar activities and are living very creative lives today. I have several articles about working with kids to foster their creativity. These two URLs are articles with more ideas on these topics.
https://www.goshen.edu/art/DeptPgs/rework.html
https://www.goshen.edu/art/ed/clay&kids.htm
Ashley Adamant
Wonderful, thank you!
Bette
I just read your article. So cool.
I live in Mississippi and our soil here on our land it’s extremely sandy. But ive noticed a washed out area that is completely gray clay. Can this be used for pottery?
Ashley Adamant
It’s possible, one way to find out =)
Babette Dillon
😂 so true. Im going to collect some and see how it does.
I know my neighbor had a clay mine? Where they used it for clay masks? Maybe.? Anyway it was something to do with beauty products. Lol
Roseanna Bali
Love, love, love this site! I just came across it searching for info on harvesting clay for a cob oven I plan to build. I am now living in the Caribbean, building a home and trying to incorporate as many live off the land elements as possible. some things are easier here, others more challenging, but your site is a great inspiration and this article is exctly what I was looking for in perfect detail. Thank you!
Admin
You’re welcome! I’m so glad you’re here. Enjoy your Caribbean home!
Reio Picol
Our soil contains pretty much clay. I was able to create stuff from the soil without any of these methods, built a small fire pit and everything went very well. Nothing even cracked. Now I want to try this wet method because sometimes i find small stones in the clay and this will definitelly be the better way to go!
Sylva
How do you pour the water/clay through the sheets while leaving the rocks/sand/silt behind. I feel like I missed something. Lol looks like fun though!
Sarah Tatum
Hi, my son has been doing this too, after being inspired by a YouTube video. We are doing the wet method and using 2 buckets, repeatedly poured tbe mixture through a fine sieve to remove stones & sand. Word of warning, ours ended up with gnat larvae in the water (partly due to leaving the mixture to settle for several days). Haven’t got to the final stage yet though!
Natalia
Oh no, just a quick question.. what did the gnat larvae look like? And how did you know it was there? Asking because I don’t want this to happen to me haha!
Lisa Wilhelmi
Lisa, Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma, back here again to say that “I did it!”. I noticed that the soil near my apartment looked very cay-like and did indeed hold water puddles after a hard rain so I mustered up the courage to swipe a few scoops and sure enough it worked! I hung up my muddy looking bed sheet ball just like yours outside on the balcony and the next day I had clay. It was still pretty wet so I stuck it in my compost bin and can’t wait to go try it out. Thank you. Perfect COVID-19 project!
Admin
Awesome! I’m so glad it worked for you, Lisa!
Gayathri
Ho can we use Dry pond mud to make this clay to make clay sculptures?
Ashley Adamant
Likely, give it a try!
Pixi
I am having trouble separating the sand from my clay soil
Evan Kay
As an archaeologist, let me just say that I have never, nor do I know anyone who has ever, found pottery fragments that are pure clay. There is always some other tempering material involved, to do exactly what you are worried about: preventing cracking. Sand, ground rock, ground failed pottery all go into the mix. And yes, it’s a trial and error method of determining what works best. This is an awesome blog post, thank you!
Admin
Thank you so much!
Patrick
To add to Evan’s comments freshwater mussle were used as tempering agents.
Meena Raj
I just stumbled onto this blog it’s wonderful thank you so much. Your kids are lucky!!
I am a terracotta sculptor and I find the best way to strengthen Clay is by adding powdered shard of broken pottery. Ofcourse you still need to fire it and that as you rightly said is a trial and error method
. I wish you every success- with lots of love from Indis
Natalia
Hello! I followed this tutorial, but I didn’t have a fine woven sheet or something, so I took a bunch of some old stretchy pants and a very thin shirt and layered those. When the water started coming through it wasn’t that clear, but it wasn’t that dark either! I found that after leaving it overnight that it was clogged so I took it and layered the still kind-of wattery mush thick onto a plastic placemat and let it sit for the day. After the day went by, I then went to look at it and it was a clay-like consistency!, but only in the areas that it was thick and not so thin, the thin parts (mainly toward the edges) were already dry and it cracked like a chip. But the other parts were fine so I put it into a plastic bag, it actually feels like clay you buy at the store! So cool!! Thanks for making the tutorial, others were not as good as this one. 🙂
Administrator
You’re very welcome. So glad you enjoyed it.
Donald Smith
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=o2dgqHuy03A
Andy does a great job of explaining how to low fire pottery above ground with out a kiln. Just an open fire.
Hannah
How do you get the clay to harden after you’ve made it ? Does it air dry or do I need to heat it? And if I do need to heat it, how?
Ashley Adamant
Air dry won’t give you “pottery” as it needs to be heated in a kiln to set. There are a lot of options, some even in an open campfire, just do a bit of research on firing homemade clay good and pottery. Good luck!
Sequoia Edwards
When you fire your parts in a pit or a fireplace, wherever you fire them, if some of them crack or break and you decide they are unusable a good thing to do with them is to take a rock or brick or a piece of cinder block and break them and grind them up into us a sand as fine you would like (This takes some experimenting.)
I have the grit that you have created back into a new batch of fresh clay. Don’t put too much in; maybe one tabs or 1/8 of the amount of clay you have. Knead it into your clay so that it is mixed in evenly and make your next pots with this new clay and “grog “ mixture.
Doing this should make your pots stand up better and not slump. They should dry faster. And they should be less susceptible to breaking when you fire them. People have been doing this as long as they have processed clay and made pots. Native American people sometimes used their metates, their corn grinding stones, to make grog from their broken pottery. Large pot shards can also be used to cradle new pots and protect them from the flames when you are firing them. This will allow them to heat more evenly and makes them less likely to break in the firing, also.
Administrator
Thank you for sharing these wonderful tips!
Julie
This article neglects to mention how important it is to add ground up already-fire clay powder to your clay to prevent cracking! Use any broken pottery.
Lisa Powell
My kids have such short attention spans and I’d hate for them to be upset with the process not working after having spent a long time on it. We too, live in Vermont, along the Battenkill in the southern part. I’ve never encountered and clay in our soul. Maybe right near the river. Again though, hate to disappoint!
Alison Stern (Former Los Angeles Valley College Ceramics student)
As someone who took seven semesters of ceramics making this is a great blog article. My teacher said that you need a bit of ground up bisque clay to add strength as well as if your clay is actually just wet enough to grow a little bit of mold it will be a better smoother clay for both building your materials as well as for the strength of them.
The other important thing is to make sure what ever you have made needs to have dried to “bone dry” so that the water content in it won’t make it explode. Placing it in a cool dry place with a cloth covered board under it will help it to wick the water content out to get to that bone dry state.
Good luck on your projects!
Glenyce
I’ve find your site is my go-to when I need information.
Thank you from Porquis Junction, Ontario Canada!
I have a question about seeds. Is there a contact page?
Administrator
We can answer any questions that you have right here. Just drop a reply and we will get back to you as soon as possible.
Jessica D Morris
I can’t wait to try this with my kiddos!! Thank you!!